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Common problems

Car Won't Start

Working out whether it's the battery, the starter or something else.

What the car does when you turn the key narrows it down quickly. It's worth paying attention to the exact noise.

Nothing at all, no lights

Almost always the battery, or a connection to it. Check whether the interior lights work. If they're dead too, look at the battery terminals — corrosion or a loose clamp is common and costs nothing to fix.

Rapid clicking

The starter motor is trying to engage but there isn't enough current. Typically a flat or failing battery rather than the starter itself.

One loud click, then nothing

More likely the starter motor or its solenoid. The battery has enough charge to throw the solenoid but the motor isn't turning.

Turns over but won't fire

The engine is spinning, so the battery and starter are doing their jobs. That points at fuel, spark or timing — an immobiliser fault, a failed fuel pump, a crank sensor, or a broken cambelt if it happened while driving.

Started fine yesterday

Batteries fail suddenly in cold weather. A battery that was marginal in October is often dead in January. If it starts on a jump and then fails again a day later, it's the battery or the alternator, and testing tells you which.

Not safe to drive?

You don't have to risk it. We transport vehicles as our other business, so a car that shouldn't be driven can be collected on a transporter rather than nursed to a garage.

How collection works

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Questions

Is it safe to jump start it?

Generally yes if you follow the correct order and the battery isn't damaged or frozen. Don't attempt it if the battery casing is swollen or leaking.

It started after a jump. Am I fine now?

Not necessarily. If the alternator isn't charging, the car will run until the battery drains and then stop, possibly somewhere worse. Get it tested.

Want it looked at?

Tell us the registration and what it's doing.

Call Enquire